Roll Cutter User Guide

1. Press the 3-dot menu button until you see Hardware, press [✓], then select Gear. If your paper feed motor is ~2 inches long enter 1 (not 2); if ~5 inches long enter 5. If you changed the value you might not need the steps below.
2. Set length to 0 and press [✓] to make a cut.
3. Use the Menu button to select Count and set to 2.
4. Set DESIRED length to 10 inches or your specific length.
5. Press [✓] to cut.
6. Measure the ACTUAL length of the second sheet.
7. Use the Menu button to select Adjust and note the TUNING value
8. Compute TUNING X ACTUAL / DESIRED and enter that value.
9. Press [✓] twice.
10. Verify that the length of the second sheet is sufficiently accurate. If not repeat the process.
11. Menu to Save and press [✓]. (Orders shipped after 7/25/25 auto save.)

1. Note any changes you made to any settings (speed, accel, units, etc).
2. Use Menu to select Settings, press [✓], select FactRst, and press [>].
3. Set length to 0 and do a cut.
4. Set length to 10 inches or your specific length and press [>] to cut.
5. Measure the actual length.
6. Use the Menu button to select Adjust and press [>].
7. Compute ((programmed length X 2) – actual length) X 10.
8. Enter the computed value.
9. Press [>] three times.
10. Verify that the length is sufficiently accurate.
11. Restore any settings from step 1.

(Note that changing YSpeed or YAccel can affect this adjustment.)

1. Set length to 0 and do a cut.

2. Set length to 10 inches or your specific length and press [>] to cut.

3. Measure the actual length.

4. Use the Menu button to select Adjust mode and press [✔].

5. Use the arrow buttons to select 5000 (100 for order shipped before 12/18/24).

6. Press the [✔] button to cut to the indicated length.

7. Measure the cut sheet length.

8. Multiply the step 5 value times the step 7 value and divide by the step 2 value.

9. Go to the Adjust menu again and set the value from step 8.

10. Menu to Save and press the [✔] button.

11. Enter the value from step 2 and do a cut again to verify that the length is sufficiently accurate.

There are two types of blades – one rotates on a ball bearing; another is fixed.

Remove the front aluminum strips and bars.
Use gloves for your protection.

To replace the rotating blade:

Pull the blade assembly out of the snap.
Snap in a new blade assembly or carefully disassemble the unit and replace the blade (see link below to purchase blades).
Remount the blade assembly and bars and strips.

For the fixed blade:

First try rotating the blade ~10 deg using the provided hex key. To replace the blade gently move the carriage to the center. You can rotate the carriage up about 90 deg without removing the belt but if you prefer, remove the belt and remove the carriage from the bar. Unscrew the blade assembly, disassemble it, replace the blade and reassemble. Additional blade assemblies are available for faster changeover if desired.

To rotate the blade:

1. Rotate the blade ~45 deg
2. Reassemble.

To replace the blade:

1. Unhook the belt from the rear of the carriage.
2. Unsnap the carriage from the “B” bar .
3. Be careful not to lose the springs in the next step.
4. Loosen the arm screws one turn and swing them out of the way.
5. Remove the screw, insert a new blade and tighten gently without stripping the plastic thread. Make sure the screw head does not obstruct the bearing arm.
6. Reassemble – make sure the arms can swing freely by adjusting their screws.

• If the feed bars are not turning at all:
  • Set the cut length to a value other than zero.
  • Verify that the Y motor cable is connected – if not, disconnect power before connecting.
  • Try to advance paper by manually via the Jog menu and the arrow buttons.
  • Check if the square hole at the left end of the tube connected to the motor is slipping.
  • If you connected or disconnected the motor cable with power on, the motor driver may be damaged – contact support.
• Determine if O-rings need cleaning (mild soap and water) or replacement as they might be slipping.
• Verify that the “C” and “D” bars are properly mounted at each end per the assembly instructions.
• Make sure at least two O-rings are in contact with the paper – heavy rolls might need more than two.
• For paper that is slippery on one side try flipping the roll.
• To help narrow the issue try a roll with less paper on it if you have one or create a small test roll by curling up 10 feet or so taken from a large roll. If that works, try reducing the acceleration and speeds settings to 1 (to start) with the larger roll.
• Check if the o-rings are slipping on the tube by making a mark on both and using the Jog command.

• Set Width to 0 to avoid wasting material while optimizing feed.
• Decrease YSpeed and YAccel settings to 1 to start and if that works test higher settings.
• Turn off power and unthread the paper or film. Make sure the 3 rotating tubes are not pressing against the side panels, causing friction.
• Reducing the number of o-rings will slightly reduce the resistance to the motor (though it can also result in slipping.)
• Sending photo and preferably a video to support can help diagnose.
• You can turn up the power on the motor drives slightly. Disconnect power. Open the console box carefully. Flex the box sides out a bit to remove the cover. Locate the small potentiometer on the red driver PCB closer to the black piezo buzzer. Notice the flat area of the pot pointing to R2. Gently turn it clockwise 45 deg from there. Reassemble. Attach power. Caution: Making adjustments with power on can blow the drivers.
• If your model has the 2 in long motor connected to the feed O-ring bar, consider upgrading to the larger feed motor.

• See Paper Threading above.

• Remove any non-smooth section of paper.

• See Changing Paper Rolls and follow carefully.

• Push the carriage to the full left. Turn the “D” tube slowly so the paper edge is under the “E” strip. Then turn the “F” bar slowly to advance the paper while watching what the paper is catching on. If the paper is catching on the “F” square bar, try swapping with the “E” bar or shimming the “E” bar at the underside of each end, using paper or cardboard. If paper is catching on the “F” strip verify that:

  • The “F” strip has an upwards bend 2.25 inch from the left end.

  • When laying on a table, the height of the top of the left end of the strip is ~5/16″ (8mm) above the table.

  • The strip has a small black spacer in place at the right end, creating a small gap for the paper to pass thru. If the spacer came off, tape a piece of thin cardboard about 1/2 x 3/8 x .04″ to the underside of the right end of the strip (two layers of notepad backing cardboard is usually about the right thickness).

  • The strip bows up slightly with the carriage far left, creating a small gap for the paper to pass thru. If not you can carefully bend it but check all other issues first as improper bending can be hard to undo. To bend the strip hold it at both far ends and gently flex it. Don’t overdo it as bending and unbending can result in a wavy shape.

• See Adjusting the Carriage Clamp.

• For very thin or flimsy material, the weight of the “E” hold down strip may be too much. Try shimming the strip ~2″ to left and right of the paper edge with a few layers of 1/2″ transparent tape. Also try changing the positions of the o-rings or using more than two. As a last resort try adding a very slight bend to the “E” strip, similar to but less than the “F” strip – make a pencil mark at the same location on the strip as the “F” strip bend and very gently bend the “E” strip over the edge of a table. Note that while this may allow the paper to push thru the “E” strip it may be more likely to jam on the “F” strip.

• Reduce acceleration
• Reduce speed
• Switch to non-bearing endcaps here
• Lean something against the roll to increase friction

• Position the O-rings to divide the paper 2/5 – 1/5 – 2/5 instead of the normal thirds.

• Handling O-rings or the O-ring bar can transfer skin oil so clean with mild soap (e.g. dish soap) and water. Dry thoroughly.
• Wrap some 1/2″ tape around the O-ring bar on the appropriate side of the O-ring(s) to block movement.
• Put double-stick tape on the O-ring bar and put the O-ring on the tape.
• See our O-ring lock accessory.

• For fine adjustment select a small Unit such as mm.

• See Adjust Length

• Set YSpeed and YAccel to 1 initially – you can raise them again once the cut length is stable. Changes to the YSpeed and YAccel settings can slightly affect the length so you may need to recalibrate via the Adjust menu after changing those settings. YAccel is especially important for large diameter rolls.

• If material is becoming slack (drooping) between the roll and the hold down bars after advancing, lower YSpeed and/or YAccel or try our Brake accessory.

• O-rings:

• • Check if the O-rings are slipping on the paper or the bar by placing a small mark on an O-ring and the O-ring bar and the material. Monitor what happens after advancing the paper. You can set Width to 0 during the test to avoid using material. If slipping, place a narrow strip of double sided tape on the bar under each O-ring.
  • Try using more than two O-rings.
  • Clean the O-rings and the bar with mild soap (e.g. dish soap) and water to remove any oil. Dry thoroughly.
  • Consider using double-stick tape between the bar and the O-rings.

• Make sure the roll holder bar is not rubbing against the frame and can turn freely.

Without and optical sensor it’s challenging to align with a cut mark. Please see above “Length is not accurate or changes over time” – the suggestions listed there also apply to mark synchronization.

• Verify that the X motor cable is connected – if not, disconnect power before connecting.

• If the motor is turning but not the pulley, tighten the pulley set screw (one screw should be tightened against the shaft flat). Consider using a thread lock on the set screw threads.

• If you connected or disconnected the motor cable with power on, the motor driver may be damaged – contact support.

If the motor stalls you will hear a grinding noise.

• If stalling began after many cuts see Rotate or Replace the Blade.
• If stalling occurs during return to the far left, the bend on the 1/2×1/16 strip may be too steep – carefully reduce the bend.
• Try reducing XAccel and XSpeed.
• If paper is not staying flat during the cut see Paper Jam when Cutting.
• Use thinner paper if possible.
• See Belt Tension.
• See Changing Paper Rolls about the paper roll holder bar C-clamp positions.
• Gently pull up ~1/10″ on each carriage bearing arm to verify that there is down pressure from the springs.
• Ensure the “E” and “F” hold-down strips are not deformed (except for the factory bend).
• Verify that your paper is not above the max thickness – see Specifications on the product page.
• If any creases or wrinkles are in the paper, pull the paper out to the smooth area.
• The hold-down springs may not be applying enough pressure – try stretching the springs a bit. Especially if the paper becomes wavy from the lateral cut pressure during carriage movement.
• After trying all other troubleshooting options you can turn up the power on the motor drives a bit. Disconnect power. Open the console box carefully – you will need to flex the box sides out a bit to remove the cover. Locate the small potentiometer on the driver closer to the piezo buzzer. Notice the flat area of the pot pointing to R2. Turn it clockwise 45 deg from there. Reassemble. Attach power. Caution: Making adjustments with power on can blow the drivers.
• There are other options to increase motor torque as well but they require a minor modification to the circuit board – please contact support.

• While troubleshooting this section it is recommended to set paper length and width to one inch so you can focus on the start of the cut.
• If the carriage is not returning to touch the motor panel see Adjust Carriage Clamp.
• See Changing Paper Rolls about the paper roll holder bar C-clamp positions.
• Gently pull up ~1/10″ on each carriage bearing arm to verify that there is down pressure from the springs.
• Ensure the “E” and “F” hold-down strips are not deformed (except for the factory bend).
• Try shifting the paper roll to the right by a half inch where the “F” strip gap should be slightly larger.
• See Belt Tension.
• Verify that your paper is not above the max thickness – see “Specifications” on the product page.
• If any creases or wrinkles are in the paper, pull the paper out to the smooth area.
• Verify that the O-rings divide the paper width by thirds.
• If you notice a small bend at the corner of the paper where cutting starts, the hold-down springs may not be applying enough pressure – try stretching the springs a bit or contact support.
• If paper becomes wavy from the lateral cut pressure during carriage movement, try stretching the carriage arm springs a bit to increase hold-down pressure or contact customer service.
• Replace a dull blade with a sharp one – see Replace Blade .
• Try moving O-rings closer to each other or using a different number of O-rings (as few as one) and make sure O-rings are mounted straight.

• Check the unit of measure on the menu (Feet, Inch, cm, mm).

• See Adjusting the Carriage Clamp to ensure the carriage returns far left after a cut.

• Make sure the roll support tube is not reversed – see Changing Paper Rolls

• Use menu Fact Rst to set all settings to their defaults.

• For models shipped after 8/16/25, learn about the Eject menu above.

• A “kickstand” is available in the Krexil store which raises the rear of the machine to help sheets fall out after cutting.

• For models shipped after 8/16/25, use the Eject menu to set a value typically 2 mm. This will help push the cut sheet away from the cut path to prevent contact with blade on return of carriage. Contact support about firmware upgrades.
• For models shipped after 8/1/25 a small rectangular item with 3 holes is provided. Move the blade and hardware to it and mount onto the carriage in place of the standard blade holder. This creates a cleaner cut on some types of material but may have a slightly shorter blade life. Contact support for earlier models.

• Make sure the C clamps are tight enough to constrain the roll position (but don’t strip the threads).

• First, make sure the clamps are constraining movement of the roll on the tube.
• You can save material and time while troubleshooting feed issues by setting Width to 0 or using the Jog menu.
• While troubleshooting, set Speed and Accel to 1 to remove slippage as a factor.
• Use a precision triangle to verify that the paper starts with its edge 90 deg to the aluminum bars.
• If the material is drifting right try more O-rings to combat cut pressure.
• Try sliding the O-rings in the direction that the material is drifting – even with all near the right edge of the paper.
• Try less O-rings down to as little as one, though you may need to reduce YSpeed and/or YAccel.
• For thick and firm material, the provided fence clamps onto the rear fixed bar to help prevent the paper from moving due to cut pressure.
• Use a stack of business or playing cards (or similar) to verify that the gap between the two rollers is uniform from left to right. If not, loosed the feed stepper motor screws and shift the motor due to the available play in the holes.
• If the misalignment happens only when cutting, try adding 1/2″ electrical tape to the top of the square bars to increase friction.
• Moving the roll further from the pinch rollers helps. This can be done by using the Extension Accessory and installing it backwards. When ordering ask for hardware for reverse mounting.
• If none of the above help, please send a video to customer support or request a call with a webcam.

See above “Paper drifts out of alignment with the roll”.

• Place cutter near the edge of table or rase the cutter up to leverage gravity.
• Tape a curved strip of thin metal to the top of the front hold down strip to guide the paper down.

To focus just on paper feeding, set roll width to 0. Also consider setting speed and acceleration to 1 during troubleshooting. Using the Jog menu can also help to focus on feeding. Hold off on cutting until feeding is resolved.

• Remove the bar. Remove the screw from the bar but not from the bearing. Apply a fraction of a drop of CA (superglue – medium viscosity preferred) or thread-lock to the threads but don’t get any on the bearing. Screw back into the bar. On 2025 models leave about one thread loose so the bearing turns freely. Let it set. Mount the bar back onto the cutter.

• Slide them into place far left so the strips are properly seated in the left panel and blocked from sliding out of the right panel.

• For units shipped after 7/15/25, lift the strip up in the middle about one inch and down at the right end so the strip locks into the recess in the right panel.

• If the bar was manufactured slightly oversize, sand it down a bit (last resort).

The front hold down strip has a notch or chamfer and a slight bend 3 inches from the notch end. This bend is important. Verify as follows: When placed flat on a table, the gap from the table to the far left tip should be about 6mm for 12 & 24″ models, 7mm for 36″ model, 11mm for larger models. Additionally if you hold the notch loosely between two fingers and let the strip dangle below, you should see a very gentle curve in the opposite direction of the sharp bend. If the bend at 3 inch is off, carefully adjust at the edge of a table. If the gentle curve is off contact support as trying to correct this without experience can make it harder to repair.

• Unplug the power cord from the console and then plug it in again.

Verify:

• Power pack is plugged into an outlet and into the roll cutter.
• Outlet is functional.
• Toggle switch near the power pack is pointing towards the vent holes.
• Try flipping the toggle switch off and then on.
• If you have a voltmeter check that you have 12V at the power pack connector.
• Try pressing the X button to wake up the CPU.

If the screen remains fully dark and no beeps are heard on power up return for repair:

1. Disconnect the power pack.
2. Disconnect the wires to both motors by pulling on the white connectors (avoid pulling on the wires).
3. With a #1 Phillips screwdriver (#2 can work but not ideal) remove the 4 screws holding the controller box.
4. Remove the 2 screws holding the PCB.
5. Remove the motor cables.
6. Ship the PCB and power pack to the address shown on the website.
   

If touching the roll or frame sometimes resets the controller, try connecting a temporary ground wire from any bare metal part of the cutter frame to a known earth ground (e.g. the ground screw on a wall outlet cover plate, or the metal case of a desktop PC that is plugged in with a 3-prong cord). A simple alligator clip is fine. It can also help to scrape a bit of the blue finish where the screw head of the lower rear fixed bar connects the two sides so that the two sides are electrically connected. After doing this, touch the metal frame once before handling the roll. This gives static charge a safe path to ground. Also, if the room air is very dry, increasing humidity can help.

• To mount the machine on a wall consider a shelf like the Vevor 12 x 36 in. Be sure that the machine can not slide off the shelf by adding appropriate constraints.
• Usually one O-ring per foot suffices but you can try more to correct feeding issues. Changing the number of O-rings may require recalibrating.
• For unattended cutting you have a few options for capturing the cut sheets.
  • The simplest is to place the machine near the edge of a table and let sheets drop to any lower surface, to be stacked later.
  • A corrugated box slightly larger than the sheet size. Remove all but one of the top flaps which gets taped to the edge of the table in front of the cutter so sheets fall into the box.
  • Krexil to fabricate a custom metal slide attached to table edge to collect the output.